In the Valley of the Moon: Jack London State Park

One of the benefits of living in Northern California is that you can go on a hike or other outdoor activity pretty much any time you want to, even in the dead of winter. In fact, winter is really one of the nicest times to be outdoors, with crisp, clean air, bright green grass, fewer crowds and tourists, and even the first of the wildflowers showing up. This is all provided it's not raining, of course. One of our favorite outdoors spots, and a great place to take a hike with the family, is Jack London State Historic Park, located in the small Sonoma Valley town of Glen Ellen, about a 45-minute drive north from Marin.

As the name implies, the park is made up largely of land that was at one time the Beauty Ranch owned by renowned writer, social reformer, and rabble-rouser Jack London (1876–1916), author of classic tales like The Sea Wolf, The Call of the Wild, and White Fang. Nestled at the foot of Sonoma Mountain, the park is full of stunning scenery, historic buildings, and short easy hikes that are perfect for families. There are of course longer treks available for those who don't have a four-year-old and two-year-old in tow.

Jack London State Park has undergone some upgrades in the last few years, too. Jack London's cottage has been totally refurbished and is now a museum with rooms decorated in period style and filled with objects used by London and his wife Charmian. There's a larger house, "The House of Happy Walls," built by Charmian after Jack's untimely death at age 40 in 1916. This also serves as a museum, park headquarters, and bookstore. There's a kiosk with historic films and images of the ranch, as well as live music played by a park volunteer on Charmian's Steinway grand piano upstairs. Both houses are worth a visit.

Opportunities for hikes abound. The park is more or less split into two halves. The lower half, which you access by turning left after the admission kiosk, provides access to the House of Happy Walls and trails leading to Jack and Charmian London's grave site, and the ruins of Wolf House. Wolf House was Jack London's grand mansion that mysteriously burned down in 1913, shortly before he and his wife were to move in. Much of the imposing structure, made from locally quarried volcanic rock, is still there. It would have been an amazing structure had it survived. The trail to Wolf House is about a mile round trip, and is mostly shaded by oak, bay, and douglas fir trees.

The upper part contains the most of Beauty Ranch, including the cottage and the ruins of the winery that occupied the land before it was purchased by London. There are miles of trails criss-crossing the area. Kids get a kick out of the old horse-drawn wagons and farm equipment, as well as the so-called Pig Palace, a technologically advanced (for the 1910s) piggery built by London. Historic buildings and sites are well-marked by didactic panels that feature informative descriptions as well as period photos.

If you're up for a longer walk, the hike up to the lake and bath house are rewarding, and there are miles of additional trails further up the mountain. The park is surrounded by mountains and vineyards, which at this time of year are decorated with yellow wild mustard flowers, which stand out against the green grass and the bare grapevines.

Amenities

At the lower parking lot there are picnic tables, restrooms, and drinking water. The upper area has porta-potties, and just past the parking lot is a large picnic area with water, charcoal grills, and picnic tables. There's also a group picnic area available by reservation. Bottled water is available for sale in the cottage and the House of Happy Walls, although you can fill your water bottles at the picnic area. There's no food available on site, but you can buy sandwiches and snacks at the Glen Ellen Market, which is located on Arnold Drive just before you turn off to go to the park. There are also a few restaurants in Glen Ellen. We picked up some sandwiches earlier at Angelo's Wine Country Deli, which is located just south of Sonoma on Highway 121, close to the Schellville airport.

Getting There

From Marin take 101 north to the Highway 37 exit in Novato. Head east on 37, and then turn left onto Highway 121/Arnold Drive at Sears Point. Follow Arnold Drive north through El Verano and the Sonoma Developmental Center until you get to Glen Ellen. In downtown Glen Ellen turn left onto London Ranch Road, just after Glen Ellen Market and before the Jack London Lodge motel. Follow London Ranch Road up the mountain until you get to Jack London State Historic Park. The park is located at 2400 London Ranch Road.

As it's a state park, there is a $6 per car entry fee. It's well worth it, and the friendly rangers and park volunteers are happy to share tips and stories about the park with you. The park allows on-leash dogs, and bicycles and horses are permitted on some trails. There's an outfit that offers guided horseback trail rides at the park during the summer. For more information, call the park at (707) 938-5216 or visit www.parks.ca.gov.