Beat the Heat at Heart’s Desire Beach

When the temperature rises and you need to get away from the heat, going to the beach is always a good idea. Unfortunately, the beach experience in Northern California, even on a “nice” day, can be something of a challenge, involving multiple layers of clothing to stave off the cold ocean wind. Swimming often involves putting your life at risk, with icy water temperatures and deadly undertows and rip currents. It’s beautiful and dramatic, but pretty much limited to walking and playing in the sand.

Fortunately, there are alternatives. The family and I recently rediscovered a jewel of a beach in Tomales Bay State Park: Heart’s Desire Beach. On the opposite side of Inverness Ridge from the chillier ocean beaches of Point Reyes, Heart’s Desire is a white stretch of sand running along a calm, sheltered stretch of Tomales Bay. There’s no surf to speak of, and the shallow water is warm and perfect for wading or a swim. The swimming area is surrounded by buoys to keep boat traffic away (except for kayaks and canoes; it's a popular launching and put-in place for those), and there's an anchored raft to swim out to.

The beach has been a favorite with Marin families since 1952, and includes amenities like restrooms, drinking water, and an extensive network of picnic areas with tables and charcoal grills. There’s a parking lot just steps from the beach itself, and overflow parking in the picnic area nearby. A short trail connects the picnic area lot with the beach. The last time we were there, on a weekday during the last hot spell (the car thermometer read a toasty 99º in Novato), it was busy, but there was plenty of parking in the main beach parking lot, and plenty of space on the sand to spread out your blanket and relax.

If swimming and sunning at the beach isn’t your thing, then there are plenty of hiking trails in the area, leading through wooded areas lush with ferns to Heart’s Desire and the other beaches in the area, including Indian Beach, with reconstructed Miwok bark dwellings, Pebble Beach, and Shell Beach. There’s a self-guided nature trail between Heart’s Desire and Indian Beaches. There are also the aforementioned picnic areas, many of which are quite private and offer stunning views of the bay.

Wildlife abounds here, too. The usual suspects like deer and birds are readily seen, and there were numerous jellyfish at the water’s edge (I’ve been told they’re harmless, but I wasn’t about to go and test that theory myself). While taking pictures for this article, I had that uncanny feeling that I was being watched, and turned around to see a small gray fox sitting placidly on the grass watching my every move, quite unconcerned by my presence.

In short, Heart's Desire is a nice sheltered cove on Tomales Bay that's excellent for families with small children, so pack your picnic, beach blanket, and sand toys and have a day of fun out at the beach.

What to Bring

Since it's ok to swim here, unlike other beaches in Pt. Reyes, bring the swim suits and swim gear! Buckets, shovels, and other sand toys are a must for the little ones. On nice days it can be quite warm and sunny here, so sunscreen is a must and hats are a good idea, too. Of course, since the weather out at the coast can be unpredicatable, it doesn't hurt to bring a jacket, too.

How to Get There

Get there by heading out past Inverness on Sir Francis Drake Blvd., then bear right onto Pierce Point Road. Continue on Pierce Point Road until you see the sign for Tomales Bay State Park, then make a right turn into the park. Unlike the rest of Point Reyes National Seashore, this is a State Park, so you’ll have to pay a $6 vehicle entry fee at the ranger station that you’ll pass on the way to the beach. It’s well worth it.