Whales and Seals and More Whales, Oh My! Winter Wildlife Watching in Point Reyes

Late December always heralds the start of whale-watching season off the Northern California coast. Reports have come in of the first California Gray Whales (eschrichtius robustus) passing by Point Reyes, so it's a great time to head out to the coast and check out the whales' annual southern migration. We still continue our tradition of never actually spotting one (although everyone around us seems to be seeing them), but that won't stop us from dusting off the binoculars and giving it another shot. Every year, California Gray Whales migrate from their feeding grounds in the waters off Alaska to their breeding grounds in the warmer waters near Baja California. This southern migration takes place from late December through February, with the peak in about mid January. The return trip back up north happens from March through May, with the peak watching time in mid March; late April and early May are great times to see mother whales swimming with their calves.

Probably the best place to see the whale migration is at the Point Reyes Lighthouse, since it's at the point where the Point Reyes Peninsula juts farthest into the Pacific Ocean. Chimney Rock, on the opposite side of the ridge from the lighthouse, is another good place to observe. Due to the popularity of these spots, the Park Service operates a winter shuttle bus program in the area on weekends and holidays starting today, Saturday, December 26, through mid April. During this time, Sir Francis Drake Boulevard is closed south of Point Reyes Beach South, and the lighthouse and Chimney Rock are accessible only by shuttle bus, foot, and bicycle. The buses leave Drake's Beach every 15 to 20 minutes between 9 am to 3:30 pm, and cost $5 per person, although children under 16 are free. Purchase tickets at the Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center at Drakes' Beach. The buses operate in a loop from and to Drake's Beach, with stops at the lighthouse and Chimney Rock parking lots.

Other good spots to watch for whales in the Bay Area include the Marin Headlands, Bodega Head, Jenner, Fort Ross, Point Montara, and Año Nuevo State Reserve.

Whales aren't the only large migratory marine mammals to be seen out at Point Reyes. Over the past few years, the Point Reyes peninsula has become home to a sizeable population of Northern Elephant Seals (mirounga angustirostris). These large seals can be found camped out on beaches around the area, particularly in and around Chimney Rock. You can catch a glimpse of the Elephant Seals at the sea lion lookout on the way to Chimney Rock, and also at the Elephant Seal Overlook near the Chimney Rock parking area. You can see the relatively small females as well as the extremely large (and aggressive) male seals, which have a distinctive fleshy proboscis that gives them their name. They spend most of their time lounging on the beach, but can occasionally be spotted swimming in the water nearby. The male seals make an unusual sort of gurgling sound, so if you hear a loud sound that sounds like someone flusing a toilet in an echo chamber, that's what it is.

The sea lion lookout is just off the road to Chimney Rock; park in the parking area and walk over the the fence and look over. There's a sheer drop of several hundred feet here, so needless to say, stay behind the fence.

Access the Elephant Seal Overlook via a trail located just off the parking lot at the Chimney Rock trailhead. Walk down the access road that leads to the lifeboat station and pier (authorized vehicles only), then turn left at the sign for the overlook. It's about a half-mile or so and ends in an observation area with benches and a nice panorama of the beach, Drake's Bay, and of course the resident Elephant Seals. The trail is easy and is suitable for families with small children.

What to Bring

Those familiar with the Point Reyes National Seashore know that weather can be unpredicatable there. The lighthouse, in particular, has a reputation for being one of the windiest and foggiest places on Earth! Dress in layers and make sure you have a wind-resistant parka or shell. Hiking boots or sturdy walking shoes are a must, since the whale viewing areas are located at some distance from the parking lots. Also, a pair of decent binoculars or a spotting scope are a must, although whale watchers are a friendly bunch and people will often let you look through their binoculars if you don't have any. There's food available at the Drake's Beach Cafe, located adjacent to the Kenneth Patrick Visitor Center, but not at the lighthouse or Chimney Rock. There are restroom facilites at all three locations.

How to Get There

Head out to Point Reyes Station via Highway 1 or Point Reyes-Petaluma Road. Head west on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard in the direction of Inverness. Follow Sir Francis Drake Boulevard out onto the Point Reyes Peninsula. Turn left onto Drake's Beach Road to go to Drake's Beach. If the road's open, you can continue on Sir Francis Drake all the way to the lighthouse and Chimney Rock.